The Contraviesa: A Glimpse into Rural Andalusia
The village of Polopos on the southern slopes of the Contraviesa, looking out over the Mediterranean Sea from 800 meters above sea level.
Mules are still part of the daily working routine of people in the Alpujarra. The slopes are often too steap for mechanization.
The number of regular church goers in Polopos is not higher than 10. The priest who attends to several municipalities therefore holds his mass on Saturdays.
The Contraviesa mountain range, located in southern Spain's Andalusia region, offers a window into a part of the country often overlooked by outsiders. This range, part of the larger Alpujarra area, sits between the Mediterranean Sea and the Sierra Nevada mountains.
Geography and Climate
The Contraviesa range reaches heights of up to 1,500 meters (4,921 feet). Its position between the sea and the higher Sierra Nevada creates a unique microclimate. The area experiences hot, dry summers and mild winters, with most rainfall occurring in the spring and autumn months.
For more information about the geography and the climate of the Contraviesa click the button.
Historical Context
Human habitation in the Contraviesa dates back centuries. The region was significantly influenced by Moorish culture during the period of Islamic rule in Spain (711-1492 CE). After the Reconquista, many Moriscos (Muslims converted to Christianity) continued to live in the area until their expulsion in the early 17th century.
We have written a blog about southern Spain in prehisoric times. Check it out here:
Agriculture and Economy
Traditional agriculture remains a crucial part of the local economy. The steep slopes are terraced to allow cultivation of almonds, figs, and grapes. The area is known for its high-altitude vineyards, some of the highest in Europe, which produce wines from local grape varieties like Vigiriega.
Historically, the region also engaged in silk production, a legacy of the Moorish period. While this industry has declined, its influence can still be seen in some local handicrafts.
Settlements and Architecture
The Contraviesa is dotted with small villages known as pueblos blancos (white villages) due to their whitewashed buildings. These settlements typically feature narrow, winding streets adapted to the mountainous terrain. Many buildings still maintain traditional architectural elements, such as flat roofs designed to collect rainwater.
Click the button if you would like to learn more about the typical architecture of the Alpujarra.
Environmental Challenges
Like many rural areas in Spain, the Contraviesa faces challenges related to depopulation as younger generations move to urban areas for economic opportunities. This demographic shift impacts local traditions and the maintenance of agricultural landscapes.
Climate change also poses a threat to the region. Increasing temperatures and changing rainfall patterns could affect local agriculture and increase the risk of wildfires.
Cultural Preservation
Despite these challenges, efforts are being made to preserve local culture and traditions. This includes maintaining traditional farming practices, protecting architectural heritage, and documenting local customs and dialects.
The Contraviesa mountain range, while not as well-known as other parts of Spain, provides valuable insights into the country's rural heritage and the ongoing interplay between traditional ways of life and modern challenges.